• By: RIYANKA
• Nov 25, 2024
• (0) Comments

12 Days in South Korea: From Seoul to Jeju and Busan

This one isn’t a South Korea itinerary, but rather a success story! But maybe, by the end of it, you’ll find what you’ve been looking for.

Back in June 2024, on one random afternoon, Khyati (who was just an acquaintance until then) asked me if I’d like to co-host a group trip with her. Without any second thought, I agreed to the plan.

Cut to October 2024, we hosted our first all-women group tour in South Korea and it was a journey that I’ll always hold close to my heart. It wasn’t a perfect trip, nor did everything go as per our plans, but it taught me some valuable lessons and helped me to understand myself better.

Anyway, that’s a different story for later, but for now…

Here’s how we spend 12 days in South Korea

(with a bunch of ladies who knew how to make friends out of strangers!)

Day 1: Reaching Seoul and heading straight to Myeongdong

After a fairly long flight from New Delhi, with a layover in Hong Kong, I finally made it to Incheon and met Khyati at the airport. We got our T-Money cards (it’s the all-in-one card that can be used for public transport in Korea as well as in convenience stores) and then boarded the airport shuttle to Seoul, which took us around two hours to reach our stay in the Dongdaemun area.

Dropping our luggage, we quickly freshened up and decided to head off to Myeongdong for some street food. While this was my first time in South Korea, Khyati had been there before and hence, she knew places at her fingertips! Maneuvering around the insanely crowded lanes of Myeongdong was a tad bit simpler because of her.

For a foodie like me, Myeongdong Street Market was a paradise! From grilled beef to egg bread, tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) & Korean fishcakes, fresh seafood to flavorful mochi – there was literally everything that I could dream of. I was spoilt for choices, and I knew I had to come back another day to try more!

Myeongdong also is a haven for shopaholics – and you’ll find everything here, from clothes and bags to cosmetics and souvenirs. 

Pro-tip: The easiest way to get to Myeongdong is by taking the Seoul subway. Just hop on Line 4 and get off at Myeongdong Station. Use exits 5, 6, 7, or 8, and you’ll instantly spot food stalls lining the sidewalks. Make sure to head to the street in front of Myeongdong Theater – it’s the main food street, packed with amazing food stalls!

Here’s a complete Korean food guide.

Day 2: Exploring Seongsu and indulging in an elaborate meal

We started the day with a mission to find Nudake, a café we’d bookmarked on Instagram, just to see if it lived up to the hype! We hopped on the subway to Seongsu and let Naver Maps guide us through the streets.

Seongsu, often called the “Brooklyn of Seoul,” had me spellbound with its effortlessly cool vibes. Warehouse-style cafés, boutique shops, designer stores, and quirky corners – it felt like the perfect way to start our day.

After some wandering, we finally reached Nudake, and it was worth it! Their cakes were more like art pieces – from cauliflower pastries, and cucumber cakes, to charcoal crème brûlée. Everything was too pretty to eat, but we didn’t hold back. Armed with coffee and pastries, we settled into their outdoor area, soaking up the sun while devouring desserts for breakfast.

Of course, desserts weren’t enough to keep us going, so our next quest was for lunch. Just 100 meters from Nudake, we spotted a cozy little hole-in-the-wall restaurant with a long line of people waiting outside. That was all the convincing we needed, so we joined the queue!

Khyati ordered a mushroom stone bowl meal, while I went for the salmon stone bowl—and let me tell you, it was divine. The salmon, with its crispy, golden skin and tender flesh, was nearly melting in my mouth. The portions were generous, maybe a little too generous, because I ended up eating way more than I should have!

With our bellies full, we continued exploring Seongsu. We stumbled upon Point of View, a haven for Korean stationery, where I picked up some cute postcards and sticky notes. Then we stopped by Kinfolk, and Khyati got some perfume for herself. They even offer perfume-making workshops, but sadly, we were running short of time to join one.

Before heading back to the hotel, we squeezed in a quick manicure stop – because, let’s be real, being in Korea and skipping a salon visit is just not an option!

By evening, our group had arrived, and suddenly it wasn’t just the two of us anymore – it was twelve of us gathered around a table, sharing soju and stories. As we introduced ourselves and discussed the plan for the upcoming days, I had a feeling that the next ten days were going to be unforgettable – and they truly were.

Here’s how you can spend 48 hours exploring the best of Seoul.

Day 3: A day trip to Nami Island, exploring COEX Mall, and the nightlife of Hongdae

It was a cloudy day and there were predictions of rainfall, but we had plans to explore Nami Island and the Garden of Morning Calm.

We left for Nami Island around 9 am, and it had already started drizzling by then. It usually takes about two hours to reach Nami Island from Seoul, but thanks to the morning traffic, it took us nearly three hours! Getting the tickets for the ferry, we sailed towards the quaint island – which even though a part of South Korea, claims to be a micronation! Naminara Republic (another name for Nami Island)  has its own national flag, anthem as well a passport!

Not to worry, no real passport is required to visit Nami Island. All you need is their so-called “Entry Visa” (basically your ticket), which costs KRW 13,000 and includes the ferry ride.

The plan was to wander through Nami’s serene woods and soak in the dreamy autumn vibes. Instead, we were met with pouring rain the moment we set foot on the island. Within minutes, we were drenched! So, we sought refuge at Swing Café, where we warmed up with coffee and croissants, hoping the rain would let up.

But the weather Gods had no mood to be kind to us! After waiting for nearly two hours for the rains to stop, but thought it’d be better to head back to Seoul and visit the famous Starfield Library at COEX Mall in Gangnam! 

Bidding ‘Goodbye’ to Nami Island, we were all set to embrace our impromptu plans and headed towards COEX Mall. Starfield Library is yet another ‘gram-worthy place that’s on every traveler’s Korean checklist, and we thought this would be a good chance to explore it.

Reaching COEX, we grabbed a quick bite, and then everyone dispersed on their way to check out the mall. Some people wanted to shop while others just wanted to chill. I was quite awestruck seeing the floor-to-roof bookshelves at Starfield.

As always, I ended up hoarding postcards and fridge magnets!

From COEX Mall, we headed straight to Hongdae, which is known to come alive at night. And it really did! This neighborhood was bustling with street performers, and there were beautiful shops selling souvenirs. We watched a group performance, before walking into a photobooth and got some quirky photos clicked (photobooths are pretty popular in South Korea and you’ll find them everywhere!).

The night ended with a classic Korean BBQ feast paired with soju, and we wiped our plates clean without hesitation. On our way back to the hotel, we grabbed some churros too!

Well, the day didn’t go as planned – but it turned out to be one we wouldn’t trade for anything!

Day 4: Hopping around the Gyeongbokgung Palace in a hanbok and writing a letter to the future!

It was the day to dress up, and everyone was excited since morning! We set off early to pick out our hanboks, the gorgeous traditional Korean attire typically worn for celebrations. Once everyone was ready, we made our way to the iconic Gyeongbokgung Palace.

Built in 1395 by Yi Seong-gye as the main palace of the Joseon dynasty, Gyeongbokgung is often called the Northern Palace, as it sits north of Changdeokgung Palace and Gyeonghuigung Palace. It’s widely considered the most beautiful and is also the largest of the five palaces from the Joseon era.

We arrived just in time for the Changing of the Guards Ceremony, a colorful and ceremonial spectacle. Afterward, we joined an English-guided tour to soak in the rich history of the palace.

Our guide shared fascinating details, including how the palace was destroyed by fire during the Imjin War (1592–1598) but was later restored under Heungseondaewongun during King Gojong’s reign. Unfortunately, it lost its royal status after the assassination of Empress Myeongseong and witnessed the decline of the Joseon dynasty.

October painted the palace in stunning autumn hues, making the entire setting look like a picture-perfect postcard. We spent nearly three hours there, and honestly, I could have stayed longer, just soaking in the beauty. But we had to return our hanboks, so we reluctantly hurried back.

Our next stop was Insadong, where we had a reservation at Sanchon, a serene restaurant run by Monk Jeongsan. Known for its authentic Korean temple cuisine, the experience promised a vegan-friendly feast inspired by Buddhist principles.

Hidden in a narrow lane within the bustling Insadong market, Sanchon welcomed us with its calming ambiance. We indulged in a seven-course meal made entirely with natural ingredients like vegetables and mountain herbs. The dishes were free of chemical additives, and though traditionally monks avoid the ‘five spices’ (garlic, shallots, etc.), the restaurant adapts its flavors for modern diners.

The meal felt wholesome and soulful – a treat we had all been looking forward to. If you’re ever in Seoul, this is a dining experience I’d highly recommend (just be sure to book ahead!).

Post-lunch, we strolled to Bukchon Hanok Village, a charming neighborhood that preserves Korea’s traditional architecture. The hanoks, traditional Korean houses—have been repurposed into boutique stores, heritage hotels, and galleries, though some are still homes for residents. With over 900 hanoks, some dating back to the Joseon dynasty, it felt like stepping into a living museum.

After wandering through the village, our coffee cravings kicked in, and we made our way to Nuldam Cafe. This wasn’t just another coffee shop, but here, along with your drink, you receive a postcard, envelope, stamp, and seal, with an invitation to write a letter to your future self!

The idea is to write a letter and put it in their dated boxes (which had 365 dates mentioned for the coming year), and on that specific date next year, you’d receive that postcard knocking on your doors! I was thrilled with this idea, and ended up writing an emotional note – now, just hoping that it’ll reach me in 2025!

By the time we left the café, it felt like the day had been a perfect mix of tradition, history, culture, and personal reflection – and my heart felt full.

Day 5: A daytrip to DMZ

We booked a day trip to the famous Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), which is the buffer zone between North and South Korea, which is approximately 90 KM from Seoul.

North Korea is still a mystery to many, and I was looking forward to knowing more about the tension that persists between the two countries. It took us about 2 hours to reach DMZ and our guide was telling us bits and pieces of the history on the way, as well as some fun facts.

Stretching 250 km in length and about 4 km in width, the DMZ has stood as one of the most tense and heavily monitored borders in the world. After the establishment of the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK) and the Republic of Korea (ROK) in 1948, it became a de facto international boundary. While active hostilities ceased in 1953 with a truce, no peace treaty was ever signed, meaning the two Koreas remain officially at war even after over six decades.

Today, the DMZ draws visitors from across the globe, curious to witness this historic and politically charged region.

Our first stop was the Military Demarcation Line (MDL), the precise border dividing the two nations. The DMZ extends 2 km into each side of the MDL, serving as a buffer zone. Standing there, you can’t help but feel the weight of history and the stark divide between two worlds.

We then visited the Eulji Observatory, offering panoramic views of North Korea, including the stunning Geumgangsan Mountain—renowned as one of the most beautiful peaks on the Korean peninsula. The sight was both breathtaking and thought-provoking.

The highlight of our visit was exploring the Fourth Infiltration Tunnel, a secret passageway dug by the North Korean army. Crawling through this tunnel was an eerie yet fascinating experience, as it offered a glimpse into the covert tactics employed during the conflict.

For anyone planning a trip to South Korea, I highly recommend the DMZ tour. It’s not just an opportunity to learn about the history of the Korean peninsula but also a chance to witness a place that continues to shape global geopolitics.

Day 6: A food walk through the bustling Gwangjang Market in Seoul, and catching a flight to Jeju

This morning, we decided to step out for breakfast and went to Tous Le Jour, a cafe that I had been eyeing ever since I landed in Seoul. And the minute we walked in, I was welcomed with the aroma of freshly baked loaves of bread and coffee! The breakfast options were endless, but I settled for hotdogs and coffee (because we were to have brunch at Gwangjang Market).

After a quick bite, we packed our luggage and set off for Gwangjang Market, a haven for food lovers! Many might recognize this iconic spot from Netflix’s ‘Street Food Asia’.

As Korea’s first permanent market, Gwangjang holds a special place in the country’s culinary history. Its name translates to “gather from afar and keep all together,” and true to its name, the market brims with an incredible variety of food.

One of the must-try dishes here is bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes), which are a crowd favorite and sold at almost every other stall. Of course, we couldn’t miss out! We also tried Korean sausages (not for the faint-hearted!), crispy gyozas (fried dumplings), and more. The array of flavors was overwhelming, and as usual, I ended up overeating.

With our taste buds thoroughly satisfied, it was time to bid farewell to Seoul and head to the airport for our flight to Jeju Island.

Day 7: Exploring the Bonte Museum, shopping at Innisfree Jeju House, and enjoying the Black Pork for dinner

On day 7 of our 12 days in South Korea, we were all set to explore Jeju Island, which isn’t just famous for its beautiful landscapes but is also known to be the home of more than 100 museums. Of course, we had to start our adventures in Jeju by visiting one of them – and we headed off to Bonte Museum.

Designed by Tadao Ando and featuring traditional Korean crafts and works by Yayoi Kusama among other beautiful pieces, there are five galleries inside the museum. Established in 2012, this museum is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Gallery 1 displays traditional Korean artwork, offering a glimpse into the heart of Korean culture.

Gallery 2 houses works by globally renowned contemporary artists Nam June Paik and Tadao Ando. I absolutely loved Tadao Ando’s meditation room, offering a harmonious blend of Korean wrapping cloth motifs and contemporary design.

Gallery 3 has the Infinity Mirrored Room which offers an immersive experience with water-covered floors and gleaming lights all around the room.

Gallery 4 offers a deeper insight into the traditional Korean burial ceremony rituals and items, while Gallery 5 gives a glimpse of the afterlife.

I was completely mesmerized by Gallery 2 and 5, which left me longing for more.

There’s a small cafe inside the museum, offering delicious strawberry latte!

After exploring the museum, it was time for some food and retail therapy – and when in Jeju, how could we even miss the Innisfree Jeju House? Located amidst a tea garden, this place produces and sells premium cosmetics, most of which are made with local ingredients like green tea, volcanic clay, etc.

Of course, there was no way but to splurge – and everyone in the group ended up swiping their credit cards! We also had a hearty meal and decided to have a cup of coffee by the beach.

We stopped at Bomnal Cafe, grabbed coffee, and took a walk by the bay watching the sunset, before heading back to the hotel. The weather in Jeju was colder than that of Seoul, and after sundown, the chilled wind nearly made my ears go numb!

For dinner, we went to a popular restaurant on the island, called Dombedon, which is known for its grilled black pork. All of us were so excited, that we ordered whatever looked good to us (well, it was difficult to understand the names on the menu, and the staff barely spoke in English), and when the food arrived, we knew that we had over-ordered.

But soon, we started wiping off one dish after another! If you’re a non-vegetarian and want to try the famous black pork in Jeju Island, then you’ll have to visit Dombedon at Black Pork Street, and order the Dombedon Special Set – it’ll be a worthy treat!

Day 8: Hiking the Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, immersive art experience at Bunker des Lumières, and sunset at Hamdeok Beach

Our second day in Jeju was all about conquering the heights, and I was excited to witness the beauty of one of the seven natural wonders of the world! Seongsan Ilchulbong Peak, which is also known as the Sunrise Peak, is located in Eastern Jeju.

It was about an hour’s drive from our hotel in Jeju City to the base of Seongsan Ilchulbong, which rises 180m above sea level. This iconic peak was formed by an underwater volcanic eruption around 5,000 years ago, making it a rare geological marvel among Jeju’s many craters.

Though the crater was once used for farming, it has since transformed into a natural sanctuary, home to over 200 types of vegetation, like silver grass and giant angelica, as well as diverse wildlife.

The hike up was moderate, taking us around 40 minutes to reach the summit (though we went at a leisurely pace, stopping for photos along the way). The views from the top were simply breathtaking—the vibrant shades of blue and green stretching out to the horizon left me in awe. The descent was much easier thanks to the wooden steps, and in total, we completed the hike in about an hour and fifteen minutes.

After days of shopping and indulging in delicious food, this outdoor adventure felt like a refreshing change. It was a chance to soak in the natural beauty that Jeju is so famous for.

Our next stop was another unforgettable experience – Bunker des Lumières. Spanning 14,500 square meters, this immersive media art space is housed in a renovated German submarine bunker. Originally built during World War II, it was repurposed into an art venue after being sold to a private group in 2012. Today, it’s known for its stunning integration of art, technology, and music.

Inside, we were treated to a mesmerizing display of projection mapping, where masterpieces by artists like Gustav Klimt and Vincent van Gogh came alive with dazzling visuals synchronized to music. Watching the paintings transform into moving art was a therapeutic, almost meditative experience. The 45-minute show left us in awe and was a perfect way to immerse ourselves in a new form of storytelling.

Finally, it was time to head to the beach. We went to Hamdeok Beach, where the plan was to have lunch and chill until sunset. Some of the ladies went ahead to grab snacks and sit by the blues to enjoy their lunch, while others headed to a beachside restaurant. There were quite a few restaurants around Hamdeok Beach, but we wanted to try abalone, a large sea snail found in this part of the world and it’s considered a delicacy. We walked a bit and explored, and then found a decent place! 

We ordered a seafood hotpot and abalone rice, snagging a table by the window overlooking the ocean. It was the perfect lunch setting, with delicious food and a view to match! Once the food was served, we wasted no time and savored the rich flavors of the abalone. (And I was so amazed to see its shell, that I actually wrapped one in a tissue paper and got it back as a souvenir!)

After our hearty meal, we took a leisurely coastal walk along the bustling beach, browsing the charming flea market stalls selling handmade goods. As the sun began to set, we grabbed coffee and watched the sky turn into all shades of pink and orange. What a breathtakingly beautiful sight that was.

When the evening chill crept in, we decided it was time to head back to the hotel and enjoy some blueberry wine in the room!

Day 9: Traveling to Busan, unwinding at a Spa and shopping

It was already day 9 of the 12 days in South Korea, and it felt like time was flying by the wink of an eye!

We took the morning flight to Busan, saying ‘adieu’ to Jeju. It was the last leg of the trip, and we had booked this day for spa and chilling! The ladies were quite excited and so was I. Dropping the luggage at the hotel in Centum City, the ladies left for Spa Land – one of Korea’s most modern and posh-looking Korean traditional spas (Jjimjilbang) that spreads over 2 massive floors!

I thought to have a good meal before going to the spa, and it was also a chance to enjoy some ‘ME time’ – so I thought not to trade it off! Close to the hotel where we were staying, there was a local food joint where I noticed that all the corporate crowd was heading during lunchtime. It seemed like a good place to eat, so I went and got a table. I ordered a pork hotpot meal for myself – and what a beautiful spread was served to me.

“Meal for one?” – the waiter at the restaurant asked, as he got the accompaniments. I soon realized that it was a lot of food for me, but I was happy!

Inside the restaurant, they had some old photos from the 1970s Busan. As I enjoyed my ‘meal for one’, I also kept thinking about the history of the place, and how this restaurant might have been, 50 years back.

After lunch, I walked to Shinsegae Centum City, which is also known as the World’s largest department store! Khyati was there, and together we started roaming around in the mall. It was indeed too big for us to cover, and we decided to part ways and meet again!

I went to a bookstore and was overjoyed to find their stationery section. At one point, it felt like I might just go bankrupt, as I couldn’t stop myself from picking things up! Even the Lego store at the mall was huge, with pieces that I hadn’t seen anywhere.

From clothes to shoes and bags, perfumes to tea, accessories, and cosmetics – this place was incredible! (Make sure to keep a check, otherwise you’ll end up spending all your money here!)

Khyati and I met for coffee, before walking into the spa!

That night, we went to another local joint called Okdoenjang and had a delicious meal. Doenjang (made with fermented soybean paste and tofu broth) is a popular Korean soup with robust flavors. I would recommend this restaurant in Busan Centum City.

Day 10: Soaking in the beauty of the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, a ride on the Blueline Beach Train, and exploring Gamcheon Culture Village

A trip to Busan will be incomplete without visiting the Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, known as the ‘Temple on the Coast’ – and it is also marked as one of the most beautiful temples in all of Korea.

Built in 1376 by the revered Buddhist teacher Naong during the Goryeo dynasty, the temple is said to grant at least one sincere wish if you pray with a true heart.

When we went, the main temple was undergoing some renovation, and inside the premises, they were raising funds by selling tiles for the temple roof. Many of those tiles had wishes written on them, and it was beautiful to read those.

We took a walk around the coast, soaking in the beauty of the blues, before moving on to our next adventure for the day – the beach train!

The Haeundae Beach Train is a sightseeing train, which is also the world’s first battery-charged eco-friendly train. It spans 4.8 kilometers along the coastline, stopping at six scenic spots from Mipo to Songjeong. The train’s unique design, with benches facing large glass windows, offered the perfect views of the coastline and mountains.

What a fun ride it was!

We got off at Songjeong Station and headed to a local restaurant for lunch—another hearty meal of sticky rice and Korean hotpot that warmed our souls.

Post-lunch, it was time to explore the vibrant Gamcheon Culture Village, a former ghetto-turned-art hub nestled in the mountains. Originally built by refugees during the Korean War, the houses were arranged in a staircase-like fashion along the coastal mountain. In 2014, the village became part of the UNESCO Creative Cities Network, and today, it’s one of Busan’s most iconic attractions.

If you’re a fan of The Little Prince, you’ll be in for a treat – there are nods to the beloved story scattered throughout the village. But the highlight for me was the hidden stamp trail! Armed with a route map from the Tourist Information Center, we set out to discover secret spots with stamp stations, and managed to collect 3 out of 4 stamps!

It was fun to walk around the maze-like lanes, admiring the cute shops and the boutique cafes. We stopped for some roasted marshmallows and coffee, and I picked up postcards of this ‘Lego’-like village!

Day 11: KTX journey back to Seoul, and taking a slow day

It was our final day with all the ladies in South Korea, and the bittersweet moment had arrived – it was time to head back to Seoul before saying our last ‘goodbye.’ But first, we were about to tick off one of Korea’s best experiences: a KTX ride!

While some might find it more convenient to take a bus or a flight, trains in Korea are just as fast – and often more affordable. The KTX from Busan to Seoul takes only two hours, and it’s very similar to Japan’s Shinkansen.

There are two seating options: Economy Class and Business Class. We opted for the economy seats, which were surprisingly spacious with ample legroom and convenient luggage storage. It was such a smooth and efficient journey—a must-try for anyone visiting Korea!

From Seoul Station, we headed to Gangnam, where we were staying that day, and checked into our hotel, dropped off our bags, and quickly stepped out for lunch. While some of us wanted to squeeze in last-minute shopping, others opted to unwind with a relaxing spa session.

In the evening, we made our way to the Banpo Bridge for the iconic Rainbow Fountain Show. The fountains cascade 20 meters down both sides of the bridge into the Han River, and when night falls, 200 lights illuminate the jets in vibrant, synchronized patterns, dancing to music.

The views were absolutely magical—whether from the hills, the Hangang River observation deck, or the crescent-shaped Moonlight Square. It was the perfect way to wrap up an unforgettable journey, surrounded by the colors of the fountain and the memories we’d made along the way.

Day 12: Enjoying breakfast at a hanok-style cafe, taking a walk at the Seoul Forest, and some more shopping 

And it was our last day, and it felt like the 12 days in South Korea passed by the wink of an eye!

Cafe Onion in Anguk was on our bucketlist, and we decided to finally tick it off. Famous for its charming hanok-style architecture, it’s one of the most popular cafes in Korea, and unsurprisingly, there was a long queue when we arrived for breakfast. As we waited nearly 45 minutes for a table, I couldn’t help but wonder if it would live up to the hype!

We were craving for some freshly brewed coffee! Other than their coffee, Cafe Onion also has an abundant selection of delicious baked goods and pastries to choose from. Well, it was worth the hype, indeed! Their croissants were delicious, and so was their strawberry tart.

After breakfast, we strolled through the nearby neighborhood, wandering into adorable little stores lining the lane. My stationery obsession kicked in again, and I stocked up on postcards and a few other things!

And then, we went to Seoul Forest Park, to soak in the colors of autumn before bidding a final ‘goodbye’ to South Korea.

It was the first time I was witnessing such colors, as we walked inside. Tall, thick, and yellow ginkgo trees lined the path, creating a beautiful sight for us. People had come there with picnic baskets and mats, and some were getting photoshoots done! The area was huge, and I feel we just covered maybe 1/10th of it.

We also had to catch our flight that day, so we headed back to the hotel to get our luggage and left for Incheon. As the bus left Seoul city, my heart was filled with happiness (and gratitude). This trip had been a whirlwind of experiences, a journey shared with strangers who turned into friends, and memories that would stay with me forever.

If you’re also planning a trip for 12 days in South Korea (or maybe more!), you can follow this itinerary, and curate your own. But a little tip – there’s no way to see it all in one trip, so pick your must-visit spots wisely and savor every moment.