• By: Riyanka
• May 15, 2019
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Explore The Ruins Of Angkor: 3 Day Travel Itinerary

Extending over approximately 400 sq. km and consisting of scores of temples, hydraulic structures (basins, reservoirs, and canals), as well as communication routes, the Angkor temple complex surely deserves to be explored at least once in a lifetime. As lovers of ancient art, architecture, and ruins, we had long had Cambodia on our minds, and when we finally found ourselves there, we were taken aback by the beauty of the place.

Angkor was the capital of the ancient Khmer Empire, which flourished between the 9th and 15th centuries AD, and it is one of the most significant archaeological sites in Southeast Asia, witnessing more than 2 million visitors each year (surprising, isn’t it?). Undoubtedly, the best times to catch a glimpse of the ruins are at dawn and dusk, when there is less crowd and the sunlight enhances the temples’ charm. Apart from Angkor Wat, Preah Vihear Temple, the Royal Ballet of Cambodia, and Sbèk Thom (Khmer Shadow Theatre) are other sites that come under the list of UNESCO.

We were quite lucky to have an amazing tuk-tuk driver who not only helped us prepare an itinerary for exploring this massive area but also ensured that we had enough time at each temple to walk around, observe, learn more about the specific artwork, absorb the beauty, and, of course, capture the best photographs!

A Detailed Guide & Itinerary to Explore the Ruins of Angkor

Let us be honest here, you can’t see it all in just a day! The best option, therefore, is to get a 3-day pass, which lets you explore most of the temple complex without rushing from one place to another.

Entry Fee & Getting a Ticket

You can keep US dollars handy or use your international credit/debit card to purchase tickets from the Angkor Enterprise Ticket Office, which is open from 5:00 AM to 5:30 PM every day.

• 1 Day Pass: $37 per person (Valid for only 24 hours)
• 3 Day Pass: $62 per person (Valid for seven days, from the time you buy your ticket. You can use your ticket pass to visit the temples on three separate days, within a week)
• 7 Day Pass: $72 per person (Valid for one month from when you bought your ticket. You can use your ticket pass to visit the temples on seven separate days, over a month)

Note: This ticket allows you to visit all the temples of the Angkor Complex, except for Beng Mealea and Phnom Kulen. An additional fee will be charged to enter these two temples, which can be purchased separately.

If you hire a tuk-tuk driver, they will first drive you to the ticketing office (Street 60, Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia), where you can purchase your ticket. Trust me, tuk-tuk drivers know it all, and you can simply trust them to lead you to the right places. When you purchase your ticket, a photo of you will be taken and printed on your ticket. It is essential to keep your ticket with you at all times when entering the Angkor Complex.

A Few Essential Things To Remember While Visiting Angkor

• It’s mandatory to cover your knees and elbows before entering the temples, so make sure to wear full-length pants, shirts, or dresses, and avoid anything sleeveless. Additionally, it’s best to wear comfortable shoes, as the visit involves a lot of walking.

• Make sure to carry water with you, as the temperature is usually hot and sultry, and staying hydrated will help keep you well.

• While you’ll see several elephants inside the complex (and may also spot tourists riding them), it’s an earnest request from our end to not go for the rides—it hurts the elephants.

• Keep enough cash with you (USD or Cambodian riel), as the local restaurants inside the complex do not accept credit/debit cards.

The Itinerary That We Followed

Before every trip, we do our fair share of research, thanks to the endless “Things to Do” articles floating around the internet and, of course, our trusted Lonely Planet. However, in Siem Reap, things went a little off track at the beginning when our tuk-tuk driver presented his own carefully planned itinerary and insisted we follow it. We were oddly thrilled, mainly because we had a countryman leading us, and Sunly made sure that over those three days, we truly experienced the very best Angkor had to offer.

Day 1: Exploring Angkor Wat, Srah Srang & Banteay Kdei

On the first day, we left Siem Reap city at around 10:00 a.m., with our first stop being the ticket counter. Once we purchased our passes, we set off to witness the beauty and grandeur of the ancient temples, standing tall in all their glory. The very first glimpse of Angkor Wat gave us goosebumps—we stood there in sheer astonishment. A massive moat surrounds the main temple, and visitors must cross a long stone causeway to finally enter the temple grounds, making the approach just as dramatic as the monument itself.

Government-employed guides wait at the entrance, and it’s entirely up to you whether you’d like one to accompany you. We chose to hire Ki as our guide (he agreed to show us around Angkor Wat for USD 10), and his deep knowledge of Khmer history, art, architecture, and the influences of Hinduism and Buddhism truly impressed us.

What makes Angkor Wat especially unique is the thousands of exquisitely carved apsaras (female deities) adorning its walls, many remarkably intact. In addition, the walls feature detailed inscriptions from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, recounting stories that reflect the region’s strong Hindu influence during that era.

Inside the temple, we also came across young monks conducting prayers and offering blessings to visitors who sought them. Although we didn’t participate, it was a beautiful sight to watch them chant softly and tie sacred threads around the wrists of those receiving blessings, a peaceful moment amid the grandeur of the ruins.

The main temple usually gets quite crowded, and when we were there, a queue of nearly 100 people had already formed! (If you wish to click pictures without any other human in the background, that might not really happen!) As we were walking out, we met some beautiful young women dressed as apsaras, and visitors could click photographs with them for just USD 1.

By then, the sun’s blazing rays had almost half-baked us, and we were relieved to see coconut sellers right next to the exit. We quenched our thirst and headed off to our next destination—Srah Srang (the Grand Pool). Originally dug as a reservoir at Angkor, this royal pool was reserved for use by the king and his wives. A stone base on an island in the centre of the pond once housed a wooden temple where the king meditated, as Sunly told us.

The unbroken steps, located directly opposite the entrance to Banteay Kdei, feature the upright head of a serpent, mounted by a Garuda with its wings unfurled. The steps leading down to the water are flanked by two guardian lions, making the entire structure look extremely grand.

Sunly, our tuk-tuk driver, had warned us about the unpredictable Cambodian weather, but we truly realised it only when sudden showers began without any prior notice! We were at Srah Srang, getting drenched while standing beside the majestic pool created by the Khmer rulers back in approximately 1200 AD.

Our next stop was Banteay Kdei, located directly opposite Srah Srang, but the rain didn’t seem to stop anytime soon. We had two options: either head back to Siem Reap and our accommodation, or get drenched and explore. We definitely chose the second option, because there was no way we were missing something so gorgeous, standing right in front of us!

Also, thanks to the downpour, there was barely any crowd, just a few adventurous souls like us walking through the forest trails and exploring this relatively small temple. Banteay Kdei means “A Citadel of Chambers” and is also known as the “Citadel of Monks’ Cells.” It primarily served as a meditation area for monks, even until the mid-19th century. The rain had turned everything a lush green, and the washed-out ruins looked refreshed, almost as if they had come alive again.

As the rain continued, we walked out of Banteay Kdei and headed back to Siem Reap town. We had planned to visit Ta Phrom that day, but we were so thoroughly drenched that we decided to save it for the next day instead.

Day 2: Wandering around Angkor Thom, including the ruins of Bayon, Preah Khan Temple, Neak Pean, Terrace of Elephants, East Mebon, Pre Rup and Ta Phrom

We had lunch at a nearby restaurant and then continued our journey toward Ta Phrom, one of the most popular temples in Angkor. And before you ask why it’s so famous, here’s the reason: the Hollywood movie Tomb Raider was filmed here.

But beyond its cinematic fame, the mysticism of Ta Phrom completely left us stunned. Unlike many other temples that have been extensively restored, Ta Phrom has been deliberately left in a semi-ruined state, preserving its raw and untouched character. Massive tree roots snake their way around doorways and walls, gripping the stone structures tightly, while delicate carvings lie hidden beneath layers of moss. Enormous, ancient tree trunks rise from the heart of centuries-old chambers, creating a dramatic contrast between nature and architecture. It was absolutely splendid to witness how time, nature, and human craftsmanship have merged so seamlessly in this magical place.

We spent about an hour exploring Ta Phrom and soaking in its beauty before heading back to town. It had indeed been a long day, and our legs were clearly longing for some rest.

(We treated ourselves to a foot massage at the Night Market in Siem Reap for USD 3 per person, and it was absolutely worth it!)

Day 3: Sunrise at Angkor Wat, Banteay Srei, and Phnom Kulen National Park

The last and final day of exploring Angkor began quite early. We left Siem Reap at around 3:30 AM, aiming to reach Angkor Wat by 4:00 AM to catch the sunrise. We had read so much about this experience that our excitement knew no bounds. As our tuk-tuk crossed the jungle roads, we noticed how empty they were. To our surprise, thousands of people were already gathered there when we arrived.

It was still pitch dark, and everyone was trying to find the perfect spot to capture the moment when the sun’s first rays touched the temple. And then, finally, painting the sky in shades of crimson, that magical moment arrived. 

Once we were done, we began our journey to Banteay Srei, one of the farthest temples in Angkor, about 32 km from the other temples we had been exploring.

We grabbed a quick breakfast on the way and finally arrived at Banteay Srei around 8:30 AM. Built largely of red sandstone, this temple is slightly different from the others, and its beauty lies in that uniqueness. Perhaps that is why it is often referred to as “The Jewel of Khmer Art.”

To quote Lonely Planet, “Banteay Srei means ‘Citadel of the Women,’ and it is said that it must have been built by a woman, as the elaborate carvings are supposedly too fine for the hand of a man.”

Our next destination was Phnom Kulen National Park, but on the way, we stopped to visit Beng Melea, a lesser-known yet breathtakingly beautiful example of Khmer architecture. The history of the Beng Melea temple remains unknown, and for a long time, there was no access to the site because dense tree growth and thick bushes surrounded it.

Later, we continued our journey toward Kbal Spean, a waterfall located at the summit of Kulen Mountain in Phnom Kulen National Park. Here, we saw 1,000 Shiva Lingas carved on the riverbed where the waterfall flows, and it felt like something straight out of a storybook. Reaching the main area requires about a half-hour hike through the forest, and it is absolutely refreshing to soak in the beauty of nature as you walk through the wilderness.

Note: As mentioned earlier, this location requires a separate ticket from the Angkor Archaeological Park, which costs USD 20 per person and can be purchased at the entrance gate before you begin the hike. Additionally, swimming or dipping your feet in the water is not allowed, as this place is considered extremely sacred. While there is no strict dress code, it is best to avoid dressing too casually.

Thus, we managed to tick off most of the ruins we had wished to see, just as our expert friend Sunly had promised, and it was time to return to Siem Reap town. On our way back, we stopped by Bayon once again, as we had both completely fallen in love with this particular temple. While most people tend to admire Angkor Wat the most, we were far more enchanted by the beauty of those serene faces, carved so exquisitely into stone.

And finally, it was time to bid goodbye to Angkor and continue with our journey.

P.S.: There are several other temples within the Angkor complex, and to explore them all, one would need to stay for a much longer period of time. However, if you’re visiting for just about three days as we did, this itinerary would surely be one of the best to follow.

If you’ve been to Angkor and explored it along a different trail, we would love to hear about your experience. And for those planning a trip to Cambodia soon and looking for advice or help, feel free to reach out. 

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