
From quaint roof-top cafes overlooking the sea to the postcard-perfect alleys of the French Quarter, Puducherry still holds on to its colonial charm.
Back in 1674, François Martin, the first governor of the French East India Company, transformed a small fishing village into a thriving port. And today, when we think of beach towns in India, Puducherry is one of the first few names to pop up in our minds. If you plan a quick getaway to explore the ‘Little France’ in India, here’s a perfect three-day guide.
Start your day with a delicious breakfast at Bread and Chocolate – one of the most talked-about rooftop cafés in Rue De La Marine. This place is known for serving flaky almond croissants, sourdough toasts with eggs, and a range of breakfast bowls, shakes, and smoothies. Soak in the soothing ambiance of the place while you savor the first meal of your trip, before stepping out to explore the colorful lanes of the French Quarter (also known as the White Town) in Puducherry.
Every house in this lane exudes its charm, many fashioned in the distinctive Franco-Tamil architectural style. Some boast vibrant yellow hues, while others sport more subdued tones of grey.
Take a walk for six minutes from Bread and Chocolate, and you’ll reach the Our Lady of the Angels Church, also known as Eglise De Notre Dame Des Anges, on Dumas Street. This mellow pink and cream-coloured church was built in the 19th Century and has a rare oil painting of Our Lady of the Assumption, which the French Emperor Napoleon III gifted. This is also the only Church at present in India that has a Sunday Mass in all three languages; French, English, and Tamil.
Continue your journey to arrive at the Immaculate Conception Cathedral. This historic church was initially constructed by French priests in 1689, only to be later destroyed by Dutch invaders in 1690. Marvel at the stunning interiors, aglow with brilliance as sunlight dances through vibrant stained glass windows during the day.
Once you’re done witnessing the beauty of the church, put a pause on your explorations and treat yourself to a delectable lunch at Coromandel Café on Romain Rolland Street. Find your table and sit in the courtyard of a rose-tinted villa, be sure to try their Moroccan spiced prawns served with herbed zucchini and crispy rice cakes, as well as pork chops served with melt-in-mouth baked potatoes.
Coromandel Café is also home to a CMYK Bookstore, where you can spend the afternoon leisurely browsing through books after your lunch.
As the sun slowly paves its way towards the horizon, take a stroll to Rock Beach and soak in the hues of crimson and scarlet, as they paint the sky. Walk along the coastal stretch, as you feel the evening breeze and find your way towards Shri Aurobindo Ashram in Marine Street.
Dedicated to Shri Aurobindo and The Mother, this serene Ashram offers a haven for solace, peace, and tranquility. You can choose to attend the collective meditation session (that happens on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Friday from 7.25 pm to 7.50 pm) or just take a walk around the samadhi, to offer your prayers.
And after all the explorations on your first day in Puducherry, it’s time to unwind and relax. Treat yourself to a glass of wine and enjoy a gourmet dinner at Villa Shanti.
It’s a new day, which calls for new explorations! Start your day early and head towards Auroville, the global experimental township located 11 km (approx) away from Puducherry. Auroville, sometimes referred to as ‘The City of Dawn’ is conceived of 50,000 inhabitants from different parts of the world.
Matrimandir, the Golden Dome built at the center, is considered the soul of this township. You’ll have to collect your passes from the Visitor’s Center inside Auroville, to explore Matrimandir and you can also opt for a meditation session at the inner sanctum.
Since the premise of Auroville is too big to cover on foot, it’s better to rent an e-bike for the day from Kinisi and explore sustainably, without the toxic smoke and fumes of a motorized vehicle. Once you’ve rented your bike, pedal your way to Auroville Bakery for a healthy brunch. Pick from their wide variety of baguettes, quiche, vegetable tarts, and salads and pair it with some fresh juice, that’ll hydrate you for the day.
Once your hunger is satiated, it’s time to feed the soul. Get ready for a tour of the Sound Garden and attend a soothing sound healing session at Svaram. Here, you’ll get drenched in the tunes and rejuvenate your senses. And now is the time for some retail therapy.
Auroville is known for its eco-friendly products, and what can be better than finding some locally produced souvenirs to take back home? You can check out La Boutique d’Auroville and Kalki Boutique and get a variety of things including incense sticks, tableware, jewelry, furnishings, aromatherapy, etc. If you’re looking for something conscious sustainable clothes, then head to Upasana, and your purchase will also contribute towards supporting the women empowerment initiatives led by Auroville.
As twilight descends, embark on a ride through Sadhana Forest, where the remarkable reforestation of 70 acres of depleted land has been accomplished through the dedicated efforts of volunteers, guided by the visionary leadership of its founders, Yorit and Aviram Rozin. Breathe in the freshness, and discover the fascinating practices of sustainable living taught in this sanctuary.
Wrap up your day by visiting Tanto Trattoria Pizzeria, where you can indulge in their wood-fired pizzas and delectable pastas, crafted with freshly sourced ingredients straight from their kitchen garden. Enjoy a tranquil ride back to Puducherry, after your dinner.
On your last day, gear up for some epic adventures and get ready to dive deep into the sea, to get closer to the marine biodiversity. Book a day’s scuba diving session with Temple Adventures – one of the most popular, and PADI-certified centers in Puducherry, where you’ll get to learn the basic signs of diving and a training session in the swimming pool. Later, professional instructors will accompany you for an exhilarating dive in the Bay of Bengal.
While swimming alongside fishes, delve into the wonders that lie beneath the waves, and learn about the importance of preserving these delicate ecosystems for future generations, from the instructors. It’s recommended to avoid eating before the dive, so once you resurface from the water, you’re likely to feel those hunger pangs kicking in!
For lunch, make your way to Chez Artizan, where each dish is meticulously crafted using healthy, sustainable ingredients, transforming comfort food into an elevated culinary experience. Their butter garlic prawns and pan-grilled fish (prepared with the ‘Catch of the Day’) are absolutely delicious. Post-lunch, pay a visit to the Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Temple, known to be the oldest temple in Puducherry, built more than 500 years ago. Admire the beautiful sculptings made on the walls and the ceiling.
A mere ten-minute stroll from the temple will bring you to Promenade Beach, an ideal spot to witness the sunset and conclude your trip. Don’t forget to grab a cup of coffee from the nearby KBS Kofi Barr and enjoy a leisurely walk along the bayside. As you hit the East Coast Road, bidding goodbye to the charming beach town of Puducherry, I’m sure your heart will be longing to return soon.
The best time to visit Puducherry is from October to March when the weather is pleasant for sightseeing and beach activities. Summers (April to June) can be hot and humid, while the monsoon season (July to September) brings heavy rains.
Tamil is the primary language, but people also speak French, English, and Telugu. In the French Quarter, you will find many signs and menus in French.
Puducherry is budget-friendly, with accommodations ranging from budget hostels to luxury resorts. Food and transport are also reasonably priced, making it an affordable destination for most travelers.
Puducherry offers a mix of Tamil, French, and seafood cuisine. Must-try dishes include croissants, baguettes, crepes, seafood platters, dosas, and local Tamil curries. Popular cafés like Café des Arts, Baker Street, and Coromandel Café serve French delicacies.
You can explore Puducherry by:
Yes, Puducherry is known for its low alcohol prices due to tax benefits. Many restaurants and bars serve beer, wine, and spirits. However, public drinking is not allowed.
Yes, Puducherry offers:
Puducherry offers a variety of stays, including:
You can check out the best Airbnbs in Puducherry, here.
Yes, Puducherry has several budget-friendly hostels, such as Ostel In, Micasa Hostel, and Nomad House, offering dormitory-style and private rooms.
Puducherry holds a special place in my heart – one of my favorite destinations in India and almost a second home. With its charming blend of French colonial architecture, postcard-perfect cafés, and laid-back vibe, it’s a place I return to time and again, not just for its beauty but for the deep sense of comfort it brings.
Also, my childhood best friend lives here, making every visit feel less like a trip and more like coming home. From lazy mornings at quaint cafés to long walks along the Promenade, Puducherry is where nostalgia and new adventures intertwine seamlessly.
[This article was originally published in the Vistara In-flight Magazine, June 2024]